Hey guys
I’m new to the site, but not to off-roading or Zooks lol, might sound like a noob question but I’m just trying to find out and get the right springs for my Sierra ...
I’m currently running some modified trail tuff 3” leafs in my Sierra but wish to go to 2” shortly, I believe a 2” spring is far more superior off road on a zook then the 3” (I was young a dumb when I went 3” lol) obviously I want something soft with some good flex, not interested in road handling because it will be mostly driven off road, I have herd the OME 2” springs are the softest but told my a friend his snapped and he recommends EFS
What is everyone’s experience and opinions with there 2” leafs ??
Cheers
Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
Moderator: Committee
- gwagensteve
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Re: Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
We're pretty much all strong advocates of OME. Iv'e never seen an OME leaf snap in a Sierra. Bent yes, but not broken.
Just a note though, OME don't advertise their springs as having 2" of lift, and if pressed, I think they'll use the term "around 40mm"
To be honest, A Sierra front spring doesn't really work properly at much over standard height - two reasons, one is because it's a short spring that's pretty much at its travel limit as designed, and because more height requires more spring rate to maintain, meaning the ride is harsh. Trying to run lots of free camber to make a soft spring sit deep into it's travel at ride height means you're out of shock travel.
It's all a compromise.
Personally, I'd see if you can de-rate your existing springs to sit at around 1.5" of ride height, they're probably as good a starting point as anything. When we put rear springs in the front we tend to end up with three leaves on the passenger side and four on the drivers - this delivers a soft ride and low lift.
Just a note though, OME don't advertise their springs as having 2" of lift, and if pressed, I think they'll use the term "around 40mm"
To be honest, A Sierra front spring doesn't really work properly at much over standard height - two reasons, one is because it's a short spring that's pretty much at its travel limit as designed, and because more height requires more spring rate to maintain, meaning the ride is harsh. Trying to run lots of free camber to make a soft spring sit deep into it's travel at ride height means you're out of shock travel.
It's all a compromise.
Personally, I'd see if you can de-rate your existing springs to sit at around 1.5" of ride height, they're probably as good a starting point as anything. When we put rear springs in the front we tend to end up with three leaves on the passenger side and four on the drivers - this delivers a soft ride and low lift.
michaelpiranha2000 wrote: The rear is in great condition. but has a broken crown wheel and pinon
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Re: Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
My current 3” springs have had 2 leafs removed all ready and heated up and reshaped to hold a 3” lift, would I have to reheat the spring again and flatten them out ? Would they be safe after all the altercation they have had be done to them ?
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Re: Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
If you can get an intervention order they shpuld be safe from any further altercations
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Re: Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
Intervention order ... Are you being funny or that’s a real thing ?
Besides the OME 40mm spring what’s another good Quality spring in 2” and are soft ? I’m trying to keep 4” Of lift and I’ve got 1” bf and just brought 1” shackles I’m hoping that might be a good setup for the zook, still running 2” springs and having slightly longer shackles and keeping a nice comfortable 4” lift
Besides the OME 40mm spring what’s another good Quality spring in 2” and are soft ? I’m trying to keep 4” Of lift and I’ve got 1” bf and just brought 1” shackles I’m hoping that might be a good setup for the zook, still running 2” springs and having slightly longer shackles and keeping a nice comfortable 4” lift
- gwagensteve
- Financial Member
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Re: Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
I've spent 25 years messing with Sierra suspension. I've made all the mistakes and fallen for all the myths that are out there. (expect SPOA, I've always known that was garbage)
Anyways, here's my musings on the subject of Sierras and lift springs.
No lift spring as supplied from the retailer is soft. They're all too stiff. They're too stiff because they need more spring rate than standard to maintain the increased height, and the byproduct of the height is the rest point of the suspension is reset, but not the extents.
So, a stock sierra has 5-6" of front travel. Stock, that's around 2" of compression and 4" of droop.
Put a 2" lift in the car and you now have 4" of compression and 1" of droop.
This ALWAYS results in a choppy ride, because the compression travel is stiffer due to the higher spring rate, you feel the compression phase more. A stiffer shock is required to control the stiffer spring, so this adds harshness too. Then, when the axle rebounds, on larger bumps, the suspension will "top out" as the shock goes fully extended.
Additionally, sierra front spring is short and has a high resonant frequency, which adds to the choppiness.
This is why 2" lift springs in Sierras will always ride harsh. It's not the brand, it's a fundamental result of a short spring being forced outside of it's design parameters.
OME is by far the softest, and part of the reason is they don't guarantee a lift height. they've determined 40mm is as much lift as the spring design can permit. (as an aside, ARB sell HD leaves for heavy Sierras. they still quote 40mm of lift, but if you put them into a light car you get way over 2 of lift. and the cars are just dreadful to drive)
4" lift is too much for a Sierra - the loss of stability and wheel travel isn't worth the perceived advantages of the lift. Whilst your 1" body lift can assist with tyre clearance, the spring and shackle lift isn't making any difference to tyre clearance.
The extended shackles aren't going to improve anything. They have a place where we're trying to achieve increased range of motion from a leaf, but that requires moving the shackle hanger on the chassis to reset the shackle angle. As it is, they're just reducing caster and increasing lateral axle movement, neither of which are desirable.
I've built quite a few cars with RUF (rear springs in the front) this is a fairly complex and invasive modification, but puts a longer spring with more camber and a much lower rate in the front. This makes the car ride deep into it's travel and results in a very plush ride, and can achieve 2" of lift without the compromises of a short leaf with inadequate travel. I'm not advising you to go down that path, I'm just pointing out that to achieve good ride and wheel travel at a higher ride height demands re-engineering of the front suspension - it can't be achieved with a stock length front spring.
Anyways, here's my musings on the subject of Sierras and lift springs.
No lift spring as supplied from the retailer is soft. They're all too stiff. They're too stiff because they need more spring rate than standard to maintain the increased height, and the byproduct of the height is the rest point of the suspension is reset, but not the extents.
So, a stock sierra has 5-6" of front travel. Stock, that's around 2" of compression and 4" of droop.
Put a 2" lift in the car and you now have 4" of compression and 1" of droop.
This ALWAYS results in a choppy ride, because the compression travel is stiffer due to the higher spring rate, you feel the compression phase more. A stiffer shock is required to control the stiffer spring, so this adds harshness too. Then, when the axle rebounds, on larger bumps, the suspension will "top out" as the shock goes fully extended.
Additionally, sierra front spring is short and has a high resonant frequency, which adds to the choppiness.
This is why 2" lift springs in Sierras will always ride harsh. It's not the brand, it's a fundamental result of a short spring being forced outside of it's design parameters.
OME is by far the softest, and part of the reason is they don't guarantee a lift height. they've determined 40mm is as much lift as the spring design can permit. (as an aside, ARB sell HD leaves for heavy Sierras. they still quote 40mm of lift, but if you put them into a light car you get way over 2 of lift. and the cars are just dreadful to drive)
4" lift is too much for a Sierra - the loss of stability and wheel travel isn't worth the perceived advantages of the lift. Whilst your 1" body lift can assist with tyre clearance, the spring and shackle lift isn't making any difference to tyre clearance.
The extended shackles aren't going to improve anything. They have a place where we're trying to achieve increased range of motion from a leaf, but that requires moving the shackle hanger on the chassis to reset the shackle angle. As it is, they're just reducing caster and increasing lateral axle movement, neither of which are desirable.
I've built quite a few cars with RUF (rear springs in the front) this is a fairly complex and invasive modification, but puts a longer spring with more camber and a much lower rate in the front. This makes the car ride deep into it's travel and results in a very plush ride, and can achieve 2" of lift without the compromises of a short leaf with inadequate travel. I'm not advising you to go down that path, I'm just pointing out that to achieve good ride and wheel travel at a higher ride height demands re-engineering of the front suspension - it can't be achieved with a stock length front spring.
michaelpiranha2000 wrote: The rear is in great condition. but has a broken crown wheel and pinon
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Re: Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
I trust what you say steve, I’ve always read what you had to say on auszookers ... I am going to get my Sierra engineered shortly after the dyno tune, I was thinking of doing a RUF as well, do you think I should not waste my money and time on springs and just go straight to RUF set up ? I’m also running front shock hoops with larger shocks ...
Re: Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
Yes RUF. do it. If your not doing that its because your going to coils (or coilovers).
Once you work out your ride height and suspension travel then do your shock hoops to hold shocks the right length to utilise said travel.
(usually 8-10 inches depending on your RUF setup) Taking into account tires and bumpstops etc.
Once you work out your ride height and suspension travel then do your shock hoops to hold shocks the right length to utilise said travel.
(usually 8-10 inches depending on your RUF setup) Taking into account tires and bumpstops etc.
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: Wed 14 Nov, 2018 3:32 am
Re: Best 2” leaf springs you have used !!
Ok it’s settled lol I will do a RUF on my zook, now I’ve read that people use the stock rear springs, can you use the OME 40mm rears ? And if so, what would I use in the rear ... I just need a rough idea on what I need to chase up for the conversion, I can get into more detail when I attend the next meeting lol