I discovered this forum a couple of weeks ago, (i am also new to the world of computers). Now is probably a good time to introduce myself. My real name is Wayne, but I have been called luigi since I was in second grade. I am the proud owner of a 87 sierra cab chassis, (S J 51T). I have had it for 17 years. Up until 2 years ago it was my work car and daily driver. I am a farrier so I am on the road a lot, and carry a fair bit of weight. Like horse shoes, anvil, gas cylinder and forge and all my tools. I used to break back springs often, until I put some pump up shockers from an HQ holden on the back.
The sierra has now been superceded by a Ssangyong Actyon. So now is the time to rebuild it and make it into a useful off roader. I will be asking dumb questions and asking advice a fair bit I expect. First dumb question. Why do the tricked up sierras have rear springs on the front? Also I have changed the rear universal joints so many times that they are no longer a tight fit. I mean the bearing cups where they press in to the yoke. Do others have this problem, and what is the cure?
Thanks and Hi to all who read this.
Rear springs on the front.
Moderator: Committee
Re: Rear springs on the front.
Hi Luigi,
I can answer one of your questions - re the rear springs up front.
There are a few reasons for doing this:
1. it moves the front axel forward approx 1 inch - this provides more clearance around the firewall for running a bigger tyre. It also changes the balance of the car slightly by moving the front axel weight forward which should result in better climbing.
2. more suspension travel - the longer springs on the rear will allow more axel droop when paired up with a longer shackle.
That's the gist of it.
For your flogged out drive shafts - i can only suggest buying another one from a wrecker.
Cheers,
Greg
I can answer one of your questions - re the rear springs up front.
There are a few reasons for doing this:
1. it moves the front axel forward approx 1 inch - this provides more clearance around the firewall for running a bigger tyre. It also changes the balance of the car slightly by moving the front axel weight forward which should result in better climbing.
2. more suspension travel - the longer springs on the rear will allow more axel droop when paired up with a longer shackle.
That's the gist of it.
For your flogged out drive shafts - i can only suggest buying another one from a wrecker.
Cheers,
Greg
Re: Rear springs on the front.
Thanks Greg , useful information. I suppose I already knew I would have to replace my tailshaft. Do the later model sierras have a larger uni joint?
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gwagensteve
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Re: Rear springs on the front.
Hi Wayne,
No, all sierras have the same size Uni Joints. In fact, Vitaras and Sierras have the same sized uni. Its plenty large enough to do the job.
Steve.
PS 1.0 litre sierras have their circlips on the opposite side of the yoke to 1.3's, but the uni is the same size.
No, all sierras have the same size Uni Joints. In fact, Vitaras and Sierras have the same sized uni. Its plenty large enough to do the job.
Steve.
PS 1.0 litre sierras have their circlips on the opposite side of the yoke to 1.3's, but the uni is the same size.
michaelpiranha2000 wrote: The rear is in great condition. but has a broken crown wheel and pinon
sierra uni joints
Thanks for the reply, Steve. I think the load I was carrying caused the uni joints to wear out quicker than normal.
Also , being my work car, repairs had to be done in limited time. If the cups are not started straight when they are being pressed in you very quickly get to the point of no return. They cant be taken back out without loosing the needles. So I had to keep pressing which has damaged the yoke. (yoke?) Interesting what you said about the circlips. Am I the only one dumb enough to put the those circlips on the outside. I mean outer circlips inside the yoke. They work fine, until you need to take them out again!
Oh well, if you dont make mistakes you dont learn anything.
Thanks for the reply. Luigi.
Also , being my work car, repairs had to be done in limited time. If the cups are not started straight when they are being pressed in you very quickly get to the point of no return. They cant be taken back out without loosing the needles. So I had to keep pressing which has damaged the yoke. (yoke?) Interesting what you said about the circlips. Am I the only one dumb enough to put the those circlips on the outside. I mean outer circlips inside the yoke. They work fine, until you need to take them out again!
Oh well, if you dont make mistakes you dont learn anything.
Thanks for the reply. Luigi.