Gallagags Trolley tug build

[gwagensteve]

Quick update from yesterday -

Filled the cooling system on wednesday, and had two leaks in the new water piping. I pulled it off, found and fixed the leaks, and reinstalled it yesterday. I pressure tested the system at 15PSI and no leaks showed themselves - so that's ahassle out of the way.

Fuel filler install and wiring today....

Steve.

[Gallagags]

As a side note if people could let me know what other seats they have used or would recommend that would be great.
I really don't wont to put the Sierra seats back in because they have seen better days to say the least. Have to wait and see what the budget will permit.

Michael

[gwagensteve]

hehehehe -

About USD $220 in the states. I'm not really sure how practical they are but they are cool. At least they can be hosed out too.

no ADR approval.... possible fatigue issues with the aluminium.... freight, comfort problems when driving with your head out of the window.....

but they're pretty cool

Steve.

[gwagensteve]

http://www.jegs.com/SizeCharts/kirkey/570-41series.pdf

Dimensions of the bare seat for anyone interested.

Steve.

[gwagensteve]

short version - IT RUNS!!!!!!! Long version below

Ahhh, wiring.

Stay with me on this - this is the bit that I was keen for everyone to appreciate about EFI swaps, but I did manage to stuff it up a bit so I'll give you all the details so that someone might learn from my mistakes not their own.

And a massive :armsup: to Mugginsmoo, Cj and Mightmouse for their help.

(oh, fuel filler is done and went well)

As pretty much any sierra service job is heaps easier with the front clip off, I have tried to make this as simple as possible.

So to the wiring. I got a bit obsessed with neatness for then engine bay, so as the Baleno loom runs straight into the car behind the block, I have stripped all the Sierra carby wiring out of the sierra loom. This has massively reduced the bulk of the loom on the firewall and inner guards. so I have built a power board containing all the powerups for the computer, fused, and the relays for fuel pump and main power, along with the headlight relays.

I have also relocated the headlight loom Michael has to the firewall on the inside of the car to clean up the engine bay - there's no relays etc in the bay at all now.

Neither of these were my problem...

We ran the battery cables, filled everything with oil etc, and hit the key... and that's where the pain started

EFI Suzukis only actually have 2 relays that run the injection side of things, a main power relay that powers everything, and a fuel pump relay. anything else will normally be "optional" like fan control etc. We had power to the main relay, but the fuel pump wasn't firing up at all. We also had no check engine light. Bad.

I got a bit annoyed by this, but we checked the pump (working) checked we had power to everything ( sort of did - I had put a pre blown fuse in the fuse box ) but still no go. I started to think about all sorts of options, and rang Cj to see if he could confirm whether this car had an immobiliser or not. It didn't look like it.
I spoke to Mugginsmoo, and he hooked me up to a source for a Baleno factory service manual site. With this downloaded, (128Mb, thank God for ADSL in the bush!) we consulted the computer pin out chart and I picked up that I had incorrectly wired the power to the computer.

This was then rectified and we had a fuel pump running - Yay! but we didn't seem to be getting a check engine light, and it wasn't starting either (cranking, but not catching)

I wired in a new check engine light to sit next to the computer, and tried again - and we got a flash code on the light. Checking the FSM, it confirmed that the code we had was for "no trouble" - Ooookaaaay then.. BUT - we shouldn't have had a flash code at all. This meant that the diagnostic link was grounded ( the diag. link is like the scan tool the dealers use but more crude - it makes the check engine light flash a code that tells you what's wrong. I fitted one to a carby car once, but the code flashed just said "running like crap" Oooo I crack me up with my nerd jokes)

Becuase when I stripped the Baleno loom, I didn't use a wiring diagram to help me, I made a couple of booboos. ONe was mentioned above about the power up, the other was that I wired the wrong violet/yellow wire to the speed sensor - the diag link. This was why we got the flash code when we shouldn't have.So we clipped that wire, and tried again. it cranked, popped once... and smoke fairly billowed from the ECU.

We pulled the ECU, found a burnt transistor, and pretty much got depressed. Michael left for the evening as it was 11.00pm by this stage.

I sent out a couple of frustrated PM's. but didn't want to give up, so I did some thinking and had a look at the ECU board. It looked like I'd only shorted the check engine light, and that there might have been no other effects. Due to my lashed up check engine light, it was certainly possible i'd shorted it, but knowing that computers are enormously hard to kill, I thought I try to start the engine anyway, safe in the knowledge that before the *ahem* smoky incident, we had an "all clear" from the check engine light.

I did some cranking, and at about midnight, it fired into life, on 2 cylinders - 2 and 3. Hmmm. I swapped the coil packs over, and now it fired on 1 and 4. so thats just a dodgy coil pack.

now to the ECU. I rang Dad this morning and we had a chat about it, and he thought it was possible that it was an isolated failure, and a generic component. (he is an industrial electronics engineer) I took it down to him, he had a look, replaced the component with a generic one, and we now had a working check engine light! :armsup:

I have wired a switch permanently across the diag link switch so if the check engine light comes on, Michael can just throw the switch and it will tell him which component has gone down/faulty.

Oh and the Baleno tach works too. It needs a little "tune" as its energised base point is a bit high (like about 700 rpm ATM) so it's reading too high. I'll just do that by manually adjusting the needle rest position.

Basically, all the wiring is now complete. I don't have a photo of the completed job - I'll get one as we're putting the dash back together, which will be getting a coat of black paint.

Steve.

[gwagensteve]

and the offending transistor. It's a shame smell can't be uploaded man this stank

[sierrajim]

hehehehe -

About USD $220 in the states. I'm not really sure how practical they are but they are cool. At least they can be hosed out too.

no ADR approval.... possible fatigue issues with the aluminium.... freight, comfort problems when driving with your head out of the window.....

but they're pretty cool

Steve.

On the fatigue issue, you may have seen the sprint car on the news a couple of weeks ago that hit the wall at Baccus Marsh resulting in an air lift to Hospital. This was the result of a broken alloy seat.

Not more than 1/2 hour before i was talking to one of the race marshalls about most of the rock buggies swapping out to suspension seats as the alloy ones seemed to be causing more problems due to their stiffness.

[gwagensteve]

Well, before it ran.... now it RUNS

The unimportant stuff -

The dash is now flat black
Brakes are bled
The weeping fuel fitting has been tightened
Steering shaft installed
Tach base position reset
Diffs and transfer filled
Auto filled
Body bolted down

The important stuff -

Big tyres back on, and car TEST DRIVEN!!!
Admittedly, it looks more like a redneck shootin' car than a completed car - no screen, clip or doors, air filter flopping about on the radiator etc, and it was only driven around my block, but it does actually drive.

It has bucketloads of power. It pulls like a train in high range and the auto shifts cleanly. Idle speed is steady at about 800rpm in gear. In low range, the gearing feels great. It doesn't quite drive over the brake at idle, but it does need a firm foot on the brake to not move. the stall speed feels fine - it "bites" nicely off the line. In low range, the ability to go from standstill though to high revs through 1st, 2nd and 3rd makes for amazing "punch" it will clean tyres very well.

It's not noisy at all. The induction noise is easy to hear over the exhaust and at idle and low revs it's very quiet. Perfect.

Obviously, maneuvering at low speed is so far ahead of the manual it's not funny. in seconds I was already pushing the car further on the culvert than we ever could with a manual.

There's still a fair bit to do, paint, lights, 1.0 grille, battery hold down, shelf over battery box, mounts for toolboxes, mount air filter, but from today's little potter there's no doubt it's the goods.

Steve.

[cj!]

It was good to see it moving and it looks like it will work very well. I won't comment though on the show winning attention to detail that was involved in the painting of the dash

[gwagensteve]

There's only one way to become Summernats Grand Champion Cj. Once the 28 coats of clear have gone on, (wet sanding between coats) it'll be the business.

Steve.