H4 90/130 Watt lamps

[Phantomzook]

A little confused as to which method to use. Am I better off running a seperate relay for High and low beam, or the diagram on outers that seems to use relays for left and right with two triggers.

[mightymouse]

Unless I'm misreading the diagram it uses 2 Dual relays ( ie 4 in total ), an unnecessary expense IMO. Personally I'd use 60A relays, one for high, another for low. 20's would be fine but I gave you all heaps of 60's so use them....

One again my personal opinion, but the relays strongly remind me of the huge low quality units kicking around and they are nothing special. The normal cube type relays are extremely reliable ( from reputable manufacturers but there are poor quality copies out there )

Following on - notice there is no protection ( fuses ) anywhere in the diagram which is a worry.

Whilst it may work (and probably quite well ) IMO it could be done better and more reliably.

[cj!]

I need to decide on what headlights to run in the Sierra. Originally I was thinking about some 70W(?) quartz halogen sealed beams to avoid issues with water. I know Ross has told me to just get H4's (probably these Bosch 90/130's would be the go) and I can seal them myself. I do like the idea of HID's for low draw, cooler running temp and light output but it is one more thing to get picked up on

If I go with either the sealed beams or the H4's I'll need to look at a loom upgrade.

There are a few different 4 headlight options out there ranging from pretty standard through to those crystal types and there is even the option to have an outer led surround for added bling.

Thoughts and experiences welcomed.

Also, don't know if it is a silly idea or not but would a breather tube added to the H4 rubber boot if the boot was sealed up add any benefit?

[mightymouse]

There's greater difficulty in completely sealing higher wattage H4's as the temperature gets significantly higher thus causing higher internal pressures that create pin holes in any sealing. Its also a bit of a pita WHEN you have to change lamps - remembering the higher output you get the shorter the life span and the more frequent the lamp failures.

Does not matter wether its higher wattage or higher "efficiency" ( +60's etc ) higher output comes at the expense of lamp life. Sales BS is just that...

I'm a fan of HID's as you would know - lower wattage, lower current draw, temperature etc etc, mine are virtually encapsulated in silicone and are still watertight. Also you don't need to rewire as the standard loom is fine. ( one of the few times an upgrade doesn't mean ripping out factory bits.....)

However HID's are illegal as you know. Given that it's probalbly not going to be your DD I wonder if its not worth the small risk. If you have the option go for a lower color temperature as the less blue/purple the light the less likely you are to attract attention. My Bosch spread beams are OEM and are noticably less blue than the converted mediums and they are all using identical spec ballasts so its solely the selected lamp. This was possible as the Bosch lamps are designed to take a propper HID lamp base OR a halogen ( an adapter ring inserted. )

Interestingly the generic no name diping HID's are more preferable than mainstram kits - they don't have the required right beam cutoff ( trying to sell to RHD and LHD markets ) which means there pattern is more suited for off road operation.

[cj!]

Thanks Ross, that is food for thought. i have started another thread to discuss HID's in particular so that this one doesn't get too far off track.