Doing my zook up rear diff is welded doing the 6'5'1 gears
And 2inch body and putting 35 creepys on it just thinking of welding the front diff to or is this a bad idea
front diff air or welded
Moderator: Committee
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gwagensteve
- Financial Member
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- Joined: Mon 13 Aug, 2007 5:20 pm
Re: front diff air or welded
Bad idea.
Airlock the front if you have the budget. Having no steering and pinballing from bank to bank on greasy climbs sucks.
Steve.
Airlock the front if you have the budget. Having no steering and pinballing from bank to bank on greasy climbs sucks.
Steve.
michaelpiranha2000 wrote: The rear is in great condition. but has a broken crown wheel and pinon
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Brendan Sheedy
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Mon 14 May, 2012 8:49 pm
Re: front diff air or welded
What is the set up cost for air or is any one selling
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gwagensteve
- Financial Member
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- Joined: Mon 13 Aug, 2007 5:20 pm
Re: front diff air or welded
You're looking around $1K for an air locker, +compressor, + fitting. I'm not aware of any second hand.
If you're planning 35's, you're going to need to run front Cro-mo CV's and 26 spline axles like Trail Tough Doubletoughs. Front CV's will break constantly without them. This means you then need a rear air locker, I think it's an RD208(?) the old part number was RD88, and if you want to try a Chinasoong copy airlocker, I think they still use RD88 as the part number.
If you decide an airlocker is too much coin, look at an auto locker like a spartan/lockright. You'll still need the upgrade to cro-mo axles, so you'll want a rear spartan/lockright.
You may want to consider a solid pinion spacer at the same time. At the very least you'll want your front end overhauled to make sure everything spot on. 35's are very hard on driveline.
I'm not sure what your current gearing is, but you might also want to consider dropping to lower diff gears to share some of the load between the transfer and diffs with 35's. Again - when fitting a locker this is a good time to look at diff gearing.
I think you'll also want to consider power steering. 35's are a bitch to steer at low pressure with manual steer. Power steering was almost the best thing I've ever done to my car.
Steve.
If you're planning 35's, you're going to need to run front Cro-mo CV's and 26 spline axles like Trail Tough Doubletoughs. Front CV's will break constantly without them. This means you then need a rear air locker, I think it's an RD208(?) the old part number was RD88, and if you want to try a Chinasoong copy airlocker, I think they still use RD88 as the part number.
If you decide an airlocker is too much coin, look at an auto locker like a spartan/lockright. You'll still need the upgrade to cro-mo axles, so you'll want a rear spartan/lockright.
You may want to consider a solid pinion spacer at the same time. At the very least you'll want your front end overhauled to make sure everything spot on. 35's are very hard on driveline.
I'm not sure what your current gearing is, but you might also want to consider dropping to lower diff gears to share some of the load between the transfer and diffs with 35's. Again - when fitting a locker this is a good time to look at diff gearing.
I think you'll also want to consider power steering. 35's are a bitch to steer at low pressure with manual steer. Power steering was almost the best thing I've ever done to my car.
Steve.
michaelpiranha2000 wrote: The rear is in great condition. but has a broken crown wheel and pinon
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Brendan Sheedy
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Mon 14 May, 2012 8:49 pm
Re: front diff air or welded
Thank for all the advice I also put the rear springs in the front I am doing all
The work myself to save a bit of coin
The work myself to save a bit of coin