Suzuki 4WD Club of Victoria

OK so I did a body lift with the help of Steve123 and Mathew.

I thought I would do a thread dedicated to complications and what I have done to hack-job (fix) them.

Firstly boot on the transfer case gear stick got sucked down into the hole which now sort of sits a bit loose around the stick.
The stick seems to be very close to the uni joint on the input shaft now but doesn't touch, but I think changing into 4-lo has some issues with touching the body.

The rubber intake for the petrol tank is now too short but we loosened the clamp at the bottom and pulled about an inch off the tank end to allow us to pull that inch up inside the car where the cap pokes through the body.

The cover in the rear right wheel well that protects the filler pipe is now not connected so I will need to get longer bolt but I will use one of the crush tubes from the old body mount.

The heater hose popped off when we jacked the car up but it has been reattached with no worries now the 2" lift is bolted in.

the hard brake lines were detached from the chassis bracket but seem pretty sturdy, I would only build a new bracket if it was required to stay road-worthy.

My engine seems to run like crap now with the exhaust being quite noisey.
it sounds like an old v-dub.
I thoiught this might be because the air intake pipe (rubber bendy bit) was crushed but when I opened it up a bit it didn't make a difference.

there may be some issues with the throttle cable but I don't know if this is an issue really, perhaps someone can enlighten me ?

feel free to add anything if you have done the body lift yoruself.

Definitely took a lot longer than it should have. Wasn't a bad effort considering we had no instructions and the quality (or lack of) of the female bolts.

Jon, did you check that all of the vacuum hoses are still in place?

Did you find what the torque specs for the body bolts is meant to be?

Ps did you remember to bleed the cooling system?

I think you've mostly covered off the little things to consider. You'll also likely find that the gear lever (for the gearbox, not the transfer) will be difficult to get into 2nd, 4th and reverse. The lever can be bent, or alternatively, take the rubber boot off, cut the hole 25mm further back, and reattach the boot with a small strip of metal at the front edge to close the hole out.

Likewise, you can bend the low range lever or open up the hole. You need to keep plenty of room around the low range lever, it moves quite a lot when the car is in low range and contact with the body will pop the car into neutral, which can be un-fun.

I can't comment on your loud exhaust problem, but it sounds like you have popped the exhaust system off of the sprung coupler at the end of the exhaust manifold. or in the middle of the car This will lean the car
out and cause poor idle and lots of chuggy noise.

It's hard to see in this photo, ( and your manifold won't have the O2 Sensor) but there's a conical gasket thing and two springs that hold the exhaust to the manifold. if this comes out of alignment, you'll get the noise and effect you are describing.


There's no reason to disturb this when doing a body lift, but with lots of work going on under the car it's possible someone pulled/pushed on the exhaust and it's come apart.

Steve.

I did nothing to the cooling system but seems to be alright

Thanks for the tip about the exhaust and the vacuum hoses, I will have a look-see today when I decide that actual paid work is not as improtant as spending time on my car (while still getting paid)

-Jon

I'll be moving my body lift from my old blue sierra on to the green one at some point so good to know.
Propbably won't bother untill I actually get bigger rubber though.

The vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the airbox had come off when we jacked the body up and that is why my engine was running crap.
FYI