Procedure for installing captive studs

[dank]

Hey Guys after blowing my hub up at Warby i decided to give Gr8 Studs a go instead of the regular bolts. Theoretically they should be stronger.

What is the best way to install these studs to get the best performance?

For the record, any 60 series or 80(i think) series rear axle stud kits will fit the zook. Great thing is the kit comes with stud, cone washer, spring washer and nut. cost about $3.00 each.

[gwagensteve]

I'm not all that convinced that studs are a worthwhile upgrade. To my mind, the point of a stud is that the stud can be fully engaged in the hub and the hut easily removed without disturbing the engagement of the thread in the hub- they are an advantage in a remove and refit situation.

The hub bolts in the sierra are working in shear. Adding tensile strength will only add a smidge of shear strength.

If you want to try an upgrade, you could go to 12.9 unbrakos.... but I think i'd rather break hub bolts than a CV or R&P.

Just some thoughts.

I run Unbrakos on my rear floater, but my EN-26 rears should be WAY stronger than the front CV. I reckon I'm happy to run stock front hub bolts.

Steve.

[dank]

Really the only reason I am running them is that they are easily available as 60 series rear axle stud kits and come nicely packaged in a sealed bag


Whats the best way to torque them into the hub without getting the nut stuck on?

[gwagensteve]

That's exactly the problem - you don't want to torque them into the hub or you'll never be able to get them out when they break.

Run them in by finger until they stop or feel tight, then run the nuts on and torque to spec. Don't double nut them and crank them in. Remember they're doing their work in shear not tension.

Steve.

[dank]

Sweet, thats exactly what i did...except the bit about torqueing to spec...dont have a torque wrench so just guessed. i'm not a chronic over tightener so it should be fine.